- Use software to design board (I use CADSoft Eagle)
- Print on laser printer
- Intensity: Darkest
- Raster graphics
- Print TrueType as graphics
- RET: Off
- Never touch board part of paper with fingers
- Cut out pattern and leave 1/4″ buffer on 1 side for handling
- Lay pattern flat, face up until ready to use
- Jet Direct Multi Project paper is good for component side
- Slightly difficult to work with because it is very slippery
- Staples “Picture Paper” is good for copper side
- SKU 471861 – 30 Sheets – Barcode: 7 18103 02238 5 – $9.99 (recently on sale for $3)
- SKU 471865 – 100 Sheets – Barcode: 7 18103 02241 5 – $29.99
- Scrub copper board with Scotchbrite pad in 2 orthogonal direction pressing hard at first and then softer
- I have recently switched to a random orbit sander with 400 grit paper instead of the Scotchbrite pad (only takes a few seconds of light pressing)
- Scrub copper board with paper towel soaked in Acetone pressing hard until no more discoloration is
seen on paper towel
- Lay board on a rigid heat resistant surface such as a plywood
- Blow dust off board and pattern carefully using compressed air
- Place and align pattern on copper board
- Heat with iron and apply strong pressure. The longer the better
- Set iron to hottest setting with no steam
- Heat for at least 30 seconds
- Change iron position half way to insure no holes on the iron are not making contact
- A corner of the pattern can be heated for 10 seconds initially to prevent slipping
- Raising rear of iron slightly to get more pressure on tip helps
- Try to press to go over entire pattern with emphasis on tip
- Finish with a flat press
- Entire heating should take about 2 to 3 minutes
- Place board with paper in hot water
- Let soak for 10 minutes
- Try to peel of some paper off after about 2 minutes
- Let soak another 10 minutes
- Use toothbrush to remove remnants of paper. Scrubbing hard should be OK
- Paper residue on top of toner is OK
- Wet Crinolin material works better than a toothbrush
- Try to scrub parallel to the patterns to avoid removing the toner
- Rinse board with soap and water and wipe dry with paper towel
- Using Sharpie to correct any flakes
- Etchant Mix
- 1 Part Muriatic Acid (28% Hydrochloric Acid) – Available at most hardware stores
- 2 Parts Hydrogen Peroxide (3%) – Available at most drug stores
- Place board in etchant in a plastic tub at room temperature
- Where rubber gloves
- Use plastic knives or forks to move board around in solution to expedite process
- Where respirator and work outside for good ventilation
- Do not get etchant on anything that is not plastic
- Remove board from etchant paper towel with Acetone to remove toner from board
- Toothbrush with acetone also speeds up the removal of toner
- Print component side on Multi Project paper
- Set print settings to mirror
- Line up component print with top of circuit board and iron it on
- Use regular paper between iron to prevent coating sticking to iron
- Must be extra careful to avoid any lateral movement because the paper is very slippery and it will smear to transfer
- Drill holes
- Use wire drill bits available at local hardware store